In the footsteps of Sri Rama – 2 (Ayodhya)

In the Footsteps of Sri Rama/ ஸ்ரீ ராமரின் பாதையில்/ Sri Rama Anu Yatra

Ayodhya

It is located in the Lucknow-Varanasi train route at 200 kms from Varanasi and 135 kms from Lucknow.

Ayodhya is the first of the seven Mukthi sthalams of Ayodhya, Kasi, Mathura, Maya, Kanchi, Avantika (Ujjain) and Dwaravathi. It is situated on the southern bank of river Saryu. The sanctity of Ayodhya can be inferred from the fact that only SriVaikundam has other names as Ayodhya and Aparjitha.

It was the capital of the kingdom of Kosala ruled by the illustrious dynasty of the Ikshvakus of the solar clan or suryavamsa (Sri Rama came from Surya vamsa and Sri Krishna from Chandra vamsa). Ikshvakus was the eldest son of Vaivasvata Manu, who established himself at Ayodhya. The earth is said to have derived its name `Prithivi from Prithu, the 6th king of the lineage; Harichandra, known widely for his strict adherence to truth was the 31st king; Bhagiratha known to have brought Ganga on earth through his penance was the King later in the line; then came the great Raghu, after whom the lineage came to be known as Raghuvamsa; his grandson was King Dasaratha, the illustrious father of Rama, with whom the glory of the Kausala dynasty reached its pinnacle.

There are over 100 temples in Ayodhya

Dasarathar’s Puthra Kameshti yagna at Makhauda Dham

The temple is located at Yerata in Basti district at around 20 kms NorthEast of Ayodhya on the banks of Sarayu River. Magham means Yagna and this is the place where Sage Rishyasringar performed Puthra Kameshti yagna for Dasarathar. It is said that Dasarathar and Kaushalya had a daughter Shanta, who was Rishyashringa’s wife.

According to the Ramayana, Rishyashringa, of sage Kashyapa’s lineage, is hailed as the inventor of ‘Putrakameshti Yagna’, the Vedic sacrifice for obtaining a male child. At a young age, he performed the first ever Putrakameshti Yagna for King Dasaratha under the supervision of Sage Vasishtar for the birth of Sri Rama and brothers. The Yagna was an elaborate event spanning twelve days. Towards the conclusion, Lord Agni sprang out from the yagna kunda and handed Dasharatha a pot of kheer; advising him to distribute it among his queens.

• Dasarathar first gave 1/2 portion of the kheer to the eldest Queen Kaushalya. She ate immediately and later gave birth to Sri Rama in Chithrai month, Navami thithi and Punarvasu (Punarpoosam) nakshatra
• Dasarathar next gave 1/4 portion of the kheer to the next Queen Sumitra but she didn’t eat immediately
• Next, Queen Kaikeyi got 1/8 portion from Dasarathar and ate immediately – later she gave birth to Bharatha in Pushya (Poosam) nakshatra and Meena lagnam
• Finally Dasarathar gave the last 1/8 portion to Queen Sumitra again. She ate both the previously got 1/4 portion and the second time got 1/8 portion – later she gave birth to the twins Lakshmana and Shatrughana in Ashlesha (Ayilyam) nakshatra.

Sri Velukkudi Swamigal refer to the twins of Smithra – Lakshmana and Shatrughana – as one (Lakshman) to do service to the divine (Rama); and the other (Shatrughana) to do the service to the one (Bharathan) who was at the service of the divine (Rama) – “இறைவனுக்கு தொண்டு புரிய ஒருவன் அந்த தொண்டனுக்கே தொண்டு புரிய மற்றொருவன்”.

Relevent Ramayana Sargams – Bala kandam 15^th and 16^th Sargam

Links: Location

River Sarayu

River Sarayu (nowadays known as Ghaghara) flows around Ayodhya in which Sri Rama had performed his daily anushtanams (rituals) after bathing. Doing charity, especially the Cow danam on the banks of Sarayu is highly sacred and returns multi fold benefits. Ram ki Paidi is a series of ghats on the bank of River Saryu. Ram Ghat or Swarga Dwara, is the most famous one among these.

This is the same Sarayu in which Rama went into Jala Samadhi for SriVaikundam along with the entire Ayodhya people; Lakshman also left for SriVaikundam only from here.
Sarayu has other names as Nethraja and Vasishti. Since it emerged from the eyes (nethra) of Mahavishnu as tears of mercy, it is called Nethraja; then she filled the heart of Brahmma like a pond (sarovar), earning the name of Sarayu; and then sage Vashishta, as the Guru of Ikshvasu lineage, brought her out to Ayodhya for the sake of Ikshvasu lineage and Ayodhya, in the form of a river for which she came to be known as Vaashisti.

Parikrama

Ayodhya has many sacred spots and you can take up parikrama in two circles, the inner parikrama covers a distance of 16 kms and the outer parikrama covers a distance of 42 kms. If you think that this 16 kms/ 42 kms parikram is difficult, you can see people doing a different type of parikrama called as ‘Dhandava Parikrama’. They do a sashtanka namaskar; then get up and walk up to the head position of the namaskar; then do the next sashtanka namaskar; like this they do the entire length of the parikrama!!!

Various places that can be seen in the parikrama are Sri Rama Janmabhoomi, Sarayu river, Sarayu bridge, Lakshman ghat, Vashishta guntam, Gupthar ghat, Kanaga Bhavan, Valmiki Ramayana Bhavan, Dhasaratha Palace, Hanuman Ghati etc.,

Dhasarath Bhavan/ Dhasarath Mahal

Dhasarathar means the one who can drive the chariot (ratham) in ten (dasa) directions.
The moorthies of Dasarathar with all his sons and Queens are present here.
Sadly when Dasarathar died, none of his 4 sons was by his side. Rama and Lakshmana left for vanavas, while Bharathan and Shatrugunan left for their uncle’s place.

Links: Location

Ram Dharbar/ Raj Dharbar/ Dasaratha Dharbar

This is the palace of Sri Dasarathar’s Raja dharbar. After the marriage, Sita and Rama first arrived here and a grand reception with Vedic mantras and mangal snana was arranged. After that a grand dinner was served and it was customary for the daughter-in-law to serve her first food to the parents-in-law. On return, Kaikeyi gifted her the Kanaga Bhavan which became the personal palace of Rama and Sita. Sumithrai and Kousalyai gifted her priceless ornaments. Dasarathar didn’t have anything materialistic to offer but he gave a boon to Sita that in Thretha and Dwabara yugam (their current and next yuga) Rama will be called as “SriRam” but in Kaliyuga, He will be called only in Sita’s name as “SitaRam” or “SiyaRam”. In North, people call Ram only as “SiyaRam” today. That’s the speciality of this place as being told by the local people.

Links: Location

Kanaka Bhavan

This is the private palace of Sri Rama and Sita ma gifted by mother-in-law Kaikeyi. Rama was 12 years and Sita was 6 at the time of marriage and after marriage they spent 12 happy years here.

Built more as a sprawling palace rather than a shrine, the Kanak Bhawan Temple resembles the magnificent palaces of Bundelkhand and Rajasthan region. A high-ceiling hall with arched doorways on three sides across a massive courtyard houses three sets of gold-crowned idols of Rama and Sita under a silver canopy. Unlike other shrines, the airy, open spaces of the evidently Bundela influenced architecture of Kanak Bhawan allows for quiet corners and comfortable ambiance. The moorthies of Lord Rama and Goddess Sita are exquisitely adorned with gold ornaments, from which the temple derives its name – ‘kanak’ meaning gold. It is also known as Sone-ke-Ghar. This was originally full of gold but got looted by subsequent invasions.

On one side Rama’s Pathukas are present which are considered to be His footsteps just before getting into the chariot to go for the 12 years vanavas in the midst of cry of the whole of Ayodhya – people as well as animals, birds, plants etc.,

On one side, we linger in the happy feelings of Ram Sita’s happy married life here and on the other side the day of his starting for vanavas is paining us. With both the mixed feeling, we go around this Kanaga bhavan.

Links: Location

Sri Rama Janma Bhoomi

The actual birth place of Sri Rama and THE TEMPLE OF THE TOWN. Being built after so many decades of legal and other battles.
Relevant Ramayana Sargam – Bala kandam 18^th Sargam. When this particular Rama Janma Sargam is recited in home, prepare buttermilk (நீர் மோர்) and panagam as neivedyam always, says Sri Velukkudi Swamigal.

Links: Location

Vasishta Khund/ Gokul Bhavan/ Bharatha Bhavan

This is the place where Ram, Lakshman, Bharat and Shatrughuna went to Maharishi Vasishtar’s Gurukul for their early education.  The moortham of Sri Vasishtar with all the 4 kids are seen in the shrines of both upstairs and ground floor. Also Saptharishis are present.

At the ground floor there is a sacred well called Vasishta Khund and it is believed that it has an underground connection to the Sarayu River. The level of water here and Sarayu River will be the same at any pint of time. This is the place where Sage Vasishtar used to perform Yagnas.

Links: Location

Hanuman Ghati

Hanuman Ghati is the most popular temple of Ayodhya. Situated in the center of the town, this temple is approachable by a flight of 76 steps. A massive structure in the shape of a four sided fort with circular bastions at each corner houses this temple of Hanuman. The main temple houses a moorthy of Mata Anjanai and Bal Hanuman seated on her lap. Daily homams are taking place.

Legend:
When Rama’s avatara period was over, He was ready to leave this earth and go to SriVaikuntam along with the whole of Ayodhya people. But Hanumar alone was standing alone not willing to join them for SriVaikundam. While Ramar expected him to be the first one to be with him, he was puzzled to see Hanumar standing alone. When asked for the reason, Hanumar told that he was with Rama all along seeing him as Ramar with two hands with bow & arrow, with Sita and Lakshman. When Rama reaches Srivaikundam he will change form to Mahavishnu with 4 hands, with SriDevi and Boodevi, with Chanku Chakra etc.,. He could not accept that and did not want to see Rama in any other form than Rama Himself and said he will be happy remaining here lingering in the thoughts of SitaRam. What a bakthi it is! Who will deny a chance to go to SriVaikundam and that too along with SriRama Himself?

Ayodhya is the place where Sri Rama had lived for 11,000 years, ok, but he left for Srivaikundam and changed form already to Narayana whereas Sri Hanumar is living here as the same Hanumar of Ramavathara time!  Imagine how powerful this temple can be and maybe that’s the reason why this temple is the most popular of the town.

Sri Hanumar is still living here in the thoughts of Sri Rama guarding Ayodhya. There are plenty of shops selling sweets and people buy them and offer to Hanmar to get them back as Prasad.

Links: Location

Valmiki Bhavanam

This is a huge and grand mandapam constructed fully of white marble stones. There is a huge hall inside with a seating capacity of about 5,000 people. The entire 24,000+ slokas of Valmiki Ramayana are engraved in the marble stones all around the hall. So, while sitting in the hall, you will have a wonderful feel of sitting amidst Ramayana. The Valmiki Ramayana is arranged such that the first letter of 1, 1001, 2001, 3001…. 24001 sargas form the powerful Gayathri Manthra.

White marble moorthies of Sri Valmiki along with Sri Rama’s twin sons – Lava and Kucha – on either side are present (they were taught and brought up in Sri Valmiki’s Gurukul). A collection of bundles of hand written Rama namas from all over the country is also present here which will be offered to the Sarayu river on the Sarayu Kumbhamela. In the upstairs, there is a library containing multiple copies of Ramayana in whatever languages it has been translated so far.

Links: Location

Surya Kund

As Surya, the Sun God who is the presiding deity of Ishvakus, did penance at this place, this kund/ pond is known by this name. This kund looks similar to the Surya kund at Kurukshetra. Having bath during eclipse is considered to be very beneficial. Nearby there is SuryaNarayana temple.

Links: Location

Mani Parbat

‘Mani Parbat’ is a famous temple for Sita-Ram in Ayodhya. Heaps of jewellery given by King Janaka during Sita Devi’s wedding were kept at this place. Hence known as “Mani Parbat”. (In Janakpur, it was kept at “Ratna Sagar” and in Ayodhya at “Mani Parbat”.

Links: Location

Manas Bhavan
This is one of the famous dharmashaalas in Ayodhya
Links: Location

Ammaji Ram mandhir

This is a temple for Rama by Krishna!
A South Indian Chola style Sri Ramar temple built by a Triplicane couple devotees. Sri Parthasarathy Swamigal and Yogi Singammal from Triplicane toured North Indian temples and came to Ayodhya. When they noted that there is no South Indian style temple here, Yogi Singammal had a dream with a divine call to construct a Ram temple here. They started the temple in 1898-99 and stayed here for 5 years, completed the temple and did the Samprokshnam in 1904. Sri Parthasrathy Swamigal lived for another 5 years but Yogi Singammal lived for another 30 years and did various spiritual services like discourses, bhajans, nama sankeerthans etc., She was fondly known as Ammaji by the local people and so the temple got its name as Ammaji mandhir.

Rama, Lakshmana, Sita, Anjaneyar, Sri Ranganatha Perumal, Naveneetha Krishnan, various azhwars are all present here, as in Triplicane Sri Parthasarathy Temple. Poojas are done as per south Indian tradition.

Liniks: Location

Sri Lakshman Kila and Sri Lakshman ghat/ Sahastradhara

Lakshman ghat is the place from where Sri Lakshman left this world for Sri Vaikundam, before Sri Rama.

This is located on the west of Swarg Dwar. The temple of Sri Laxman who is the Avtar of Shesh Naag is situated here where the moorthy of Shri Laxman is established. This place also provides residence for the pilgrims who visit Ayodhya during various festivals and melas and is known as Laxman Kila. Pilgrims visit this temple for blessings on every Naag Panchmi after taking bath in the river.

Links: Location

Gupthar ghat

This is located at around 10 kms West of Ayodhya. There is a big temple here with Rama and Sita.

Rama ruled Ayodhya for 11,000 years after the Pattabhishegam and this is the bathing ghat from where Sri Rama left this world for Sri Vaikundam along with the entire population of Ayodhya. Gupthaar means secret or hidden or disappearance. Both Sri Rama and Sri Krishna left the world without leaving the body on earth since their bodies were not made of pancha boothas but were made of Pancha Upanishads and pancha sakthis. There was no mention in any ithikasa or puransa that somebody had done rituals to their bodies.
When Rama reached the time to end his avatar, Brahma wanted to deliver the information to Sri Rama through Kala devan. Sri Rama was always with Lakshmana and so Rama was asked to send Lakshman out. Also Kala devan made a condition that if anybody comes in between their discussion then they should be given death sentence. So Lakshman was standing outside keeping a vigil but Sage Durvasar came in just at that time. His anger and curse were well known and so there was no other way for Lakshman to go inside and inform his arrival to Sri Rama. There was no other way also for Lakshman than getting a death sentence. So, before Sri Rama, Sri Lakshman went to Sri Vaikundam leaving from this Lakshman ghat. In the same way as he served Rama in the Rama avatar, he went before Sri Rama to Srivaikuntam to prepare for Sri Rama’s arrival and to be ready at the service of Sri Rama, Sri Velukkudi Swamigal says.
When Rama and brothers were infants, they were crying incessantly in their cradles and the mothers were in a helpless situation not knowing how to stop their crying. The cradles were arranged in the order of births like, Rama, Bharatha, Lakshman and Satruguna. Vasishtar came by that side and he, through his power, understood the situation and asked the mothers to change the order of cradles to Rama, Lakshmana, Bharatha and Sathruguna. The crying then reduced but not stopped fully. Then Vasishtar asked them again to remove 2 cradles and put Rama&Lakshmana in one cradle and Bharatha&Sathruguna in the other. The crying then stopped completely and the infants started enjoying. Rama was without Sita for many years but he was never without Lakshmana. Such is the company of Rama & Lakshmana and imagine how Rama would have felt when Lakshmana left early for SriVaikundam!
So, Vasishtar fixed the time for Rama to end His avatar and on that day Rama wore the white dress, held the Darbai in hand and started from his palace to this ghat. He worshipped all the devathas and along with all the Ayodhya people went into Sarayu to reach SriVaikundam. There was only happiness all over and no sorrow.

Relevent Ramayana sargams: Uttarakanda 109th and 110th sargas

Links: Location

Thothadri mutt

Here there is a vigraham of Rama in the cradle, rocked by Kulashekaralvar as Kousalya.

Tulsi Smarak Bhawan

Tulsi Smarak Bhawan was constructed in 1969 in memory of Goswami Tulsidas Ji who composed the Ramcharitmanas in Awadhi language and the Hanuman Chalisa. The bhawan is home to ‘Ayodhya Shodh Sansthan’, Ayodhya Research Centre, an organisation occupied with studying and ascribing historical significance to Ayodhya and its literary, cultural, and spiritual traditions. There is a library, a permanent exhibition featuring Ramayana art and craft, daily recitation of Ramkatha, and year-round enactment of Ram Leela. In 1988, Ramkatha Museum was established within the institution.Through its collection of antiquities of Ramayana era, the museum puts forth the historical perspective of Ayodhya. The museum houses an outstanding collection of rare paintings, ivory articles, photographs and antiquities which are all connected with the life of Lord Rama.

The birthday of Tulsidas, Tulsi Jayanti is celebrated with great zeal and enthusiasm every year.

Links: Location

Sri Nageshwarnath Temple

The temple is situated near the Ram ki Paidi and is dedicated to Lord Shiva, Nageshwar Nath or the God of Snakes. The temple was established by Kush, son of Rama. Legend has it that Kush lost his armlet while bathing in the Sarayu, and it was retrieved by a Naag-Kanya who fell in love with him. As she was a devotee of Shiva, Kush built her this temple as a gesture of gratitude. It was the only temple to survive when Ayodhya was abandoned until the time of Vikramaditya. While the rest of city was in ruin and covered by dense forest, this temple allowed Vikramaditya to recognise the city.

The temple is an architectural marvel that attracts people from across the country

Links: Location

Treta Ke Thakur/ Kala Rama Temple/ Kaleram-ka-Mandir (opens only once a year)

This temple of Sri Rama, who is known as ‘Treta ke Thakur’, is located at the Naya Ghat of Ayodhya. It is believed that this temple has been built over the place where Sri Rama had performed the Ashvamedha Yagna. About 300 years ago, the King of Kullu built a new temple here, known as ‘Kaleram ka Mandir’. In 1784, when some improvements were done to the temple, the adjoining Ghats were also built. At that time, the initial noorthies in black sandstone were recovered. Now, it houses the moorthies of Sri Rama with all His brothers – Lakshman, Bharata & Shatrughan; Sita, Guru Vashishtha, Hanuman, Sugreeva and guards – Jaya and Vijaya which are all made of black sandstone. The temple opens only once a year, on Ekadashi (eleventh day) of Shukla Paksha in Kartik Month. The day is celebrated with pomp and gaiety along with a special pooja.

Links: Location

Other places of interest:

Brahma Kund, Amawan Temple, Tulsi Chaura, Laxman Quila, Angad Tila, Shri Rama Janaki Birla Temple, Datuvan Kund, Janki Mahal, Ram Katha Museum are among other places of interest in Ayodhya.

All Pictures Courtesy: Video snapshots of Sri Velukkudi Swamigal’s DVD “ஸ்ரீ ராமரின் பாதையில்” from Kinchitkaran Trust.